The Hague: Scheveningen Sculptures

After visiting the Panorama Mesdag, I met my friend at the actual Scheveningen beach which, despite the howling wind and icy raindrops, reminded me of the Durban beachfront with its promenade. I didn't stick my toes in the ocean, fearing I might lose them altogether if I tried and judging by the blue hues of the brave windsurfers exiting the waves, it was definitely the responsible thing to do.

Scheveningen Beachfront

We leaned into the wind and headed for the colourful cafe's that dotted the beachfront, stopping to look at the creative bronze figurines scattered across the promenade. They were designed by Tom Otterness in 2004 and after an absence of two and a half years the "Sprookjesbeelden aan Zee" (Fairytale Sculptures by the Sea) have been back at Scheveningen since March 2012. 

The biggest statue can be seen from afar with its head thrown back to gulp down a herring, dangling 12 m in the air. Please note: It is not just any old fish. It is a herring. I know this because 1) The statue is called the "Haringeter", and combined with 2) This is the Netherlands!, it's pretty easy to put two and two together. If you're South African, think biltong and you'll understand the fascination.

Speaking of (red) herrings: Herring season, which was supposed to start early in June in the Netherlands, has tragically been delayed this year due to the cold spring weather. Since the Dutch love their herring, the postponement of the season might leave locals with a bad taste in the mouth (no pun intended). 

Back on the beachfront I could not decide whether the sculptures of little men and animals were extremely cute or horrifyingly cruel. I even glanced back at the name to make sure I'm not standing amongst "spookjes" (ghosts), but the "r" was definitely wedged in there, rendering one to believe that you are looking at fairytale characters.

It was almost like staring at one of those optical illusions: First you notice the little people with their big eyes and charming hats. And then, with a start, you realise that they've been imprisoned and are bound by chains. And that their eyes might be that big and round, not due to excitement, but due to extreme fear. 
Psychiatrists will have a field day in Scheveningen, interpreting the answers to the question: "What do you see..?"

Funky / Frightening Figurines

Even so, children seem to love the statues and I'm sure they will clamber all over the chains and tears on "Vlaggetjesdag" without giving it a second thought. Besides, the alternative would be to watch grandma mimic the Haringeter and wolf down herrings by the bucketful. It's a toss-up really, between which memory will haunt you forever: A statue or an elderly family member throwing back their heads to devour a tiny, raw fish.
To me, the statues are becoming more attractive by the minute.

One thing is for sure, Scheveningen certainly provides enough entertainment for big and small and has clearly been an inspiration to painters and artists since the previous century.
And now, also to modern-day bloggers.

The Hague: Musings & Madurodam

Whenever I arrive in a town or city for the very first time, I like to walk around and explore the streets and alleyways, take in the towering buildings and smooth rivers, watch the people and wonder about their lives. 
Because every place has a different vibe and feel. It is in the air breathed by passersby, in the smell of freshly baked goods and produce, in the voices of the crowds and the sounds of shoes on sidewalks.

Sometimes it's instantaneous: A feeling of overwhelming excitement about this place, this moment. Or a hushed whisper that this city's mould was not made to fit your form.
Other times, it takes longer to grasp the rhythm the city is swaying to.

In Maastricht, the attraction was immediate: A river framed with willows and cobble-stoned bridges, bicycles weaving effortless to and fro, laughter and music spilling into the streets, older couples sitting on benches overlooking the shimmering water. Beautiful buildings, art galleries and shops. Boats and churches. A small speck of heaven.

The Hague exuded an air of urgency and focus, like an older, more responsible sibling of Maastricht. But while trams and busses snaked through the city centre and stores bustled with people, it was equally picturesque: Modern office buildings and art galleries were well balanced with historical squares, framed by fountains and dotted with statues.

Beautiful Buildings

Roads and Rivers

I took a walk to "het Binnenhof" and "het Buitenhof", although I am still unsure if I was inside the Binnenhof and outside the Buitenhof, or vice versa. The tower located at the Binnenhof, is where the King addresses the nation, while the tower situated in the Buitenhof, is where the Prime Minister is addressed. 
If you are wondering whose tower is the biggest, the name says it all: The Prime Minister's tower is called the "Torentje" (little tower).

Inside-Out: Binnenhof & Buitenhof

A bubble tea sign brought back memories of 2009 in California's Chinatown, trying on "tang" tops and experiencing the sweetness of bubble tea for the first time. Not surprisingly, the cafe seemed to be the gathering place of all Americans in The Hague. With a drink in hand, I pulled up a chair and did some Dutch dictionary reading about "de rots aan zee waar opa vaak op zit". 
Interestingly, the sentence had nothing to do with the state of grandpa's consciousness, but rather the frequency of grandpa's position on said rock. (What a relief! A tried grandpa on some rock next to an ocean is quite a disturbing thought.)

Bubble Tea Break

Back on the streets I had just given up hope of ever grasping The Hague's complicated tram schedule, when I stumbled upon a tram indicating that it was heading to Madurodam. I jumped on board, miraculously pressed the stop-button at the right station and stepped out to an intriguing sight: A park full of miniature buildings that represent actual buildings scattered throughout the Netherlands.

Madurodam

Children were running around with bulging eyes, trying to process the exhilaration of being inside a a doll-house sized universe where miniature buildings, boats, and people stretched out as far as the eye could see. I rushed off behind them and we pointed and cheered at a roller-coaster brought to live with a coin. Madurodam is enough to bring out the inner-child in everyone - yes, even the most serious accountant.

Detailed Perfection

There was a replica of the Binnenhof that I had just visited, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam and even Helpoort in Maastricht which I have yet to encounter. I added several opulent buildings to my Netherlands must-see list, like the Paleis het Loo whose gardens seemed beautiful even on a miniature scale.

One Giant Leap

And so, while checking off Madurodam on my Netherlands itinerary, I added several others to the list.
But first: Finding a tram that will take me back into The Hague's city centre.
Sometimes, to achieve giant leaps, one has to start with a small step.

The Hague: Panorama Mesdag

With the colours of Keukenhof still vivid in my mind, I found myself back at Schipol Airport where I boarded a train and stepped out at the Hague Centraal 30 minutes later.A friend from varsity, who lives and works in the Hague, met me at the station and gave me a quick tour of the city centre as we walked back to her apartment.

The next day while she had to go to work, I headed out to explored the rest of the city, armed with a map and her very useful Afrikaans-Dutch dictionary (because you never know when you might find yourself on the brink of starvation and need to ask for "een appel alstublieft!").

According to the map I was very close to the Panorama Mesdag and when I saw the warm and inviting interior, I immediately stepped out of the cold wind and gladly paid the entrance fee. Although the locals reckon that you can just take a bus to Scheveningen and step out into the real, not to mention modern, deal 5 minutes later, the museum was well worth the visit.

I joined a group of German tourists in the centre of the museum where we gazed out to the canvas 14 meters from where we stood. 
"Da ist es," a German husband motioned to his wife, hopefully pointing to something on the panorama. 
Because the panorama itself could not be missed.

Gazing Out

The scene of Scheveningen, painted in 1881 by Hendrik Mesdag, rose 14 m high and the landscape of 120 m long stretched 360 degrees around the viewing platform. The detail and scale was incredible, creating the illusion of overlooking the ocean from atop a sand dune.

Scheveningen Scenes

As I was pondering how the Scheveningen landscape was transferred to the canvas in such a flawless manner 132 years before, a voice to my left provided the answer.
"Da ist es, Heike."
We all turned with Heike to look at the glass cylinder to which her husband was pointing.

Glass Cylinder

Hendrik Mesdag first drew the scene on the glass cylinder and thereafter transferred it to the canvas with the help of his wife and assistants. 
Four month later the panorama Mesdag was born - the oldest panorama still in its original location.

Panorama of the Panorama

It is said that Willem Mesdag himself can be seen in the Panorama, painting beneath a blue umbrella on the Scheveningen beach.

Painter in a Painting